Archive for April, 2010

Best cordless drill for home use

Tuesday, April 27th, 2010

I have specific criteria for a cordless drill for home use.  Versatility is most important.  You’re buying a drill to face as many situations as you can cover with one tool.

Power vs. Size

Having more power allows you to do more tasks.  But smaller size allows you into tighter spots.  I think it’s helpful to set a benchmark for power, a task you must be able to accomplish, and then we can consider the sizes of drills that allow you to do that.  My benchmark is driving several 3 inch screws into hard lumber.  Several years ago you would have needed an 18V (or at least 14.4V) cordless to handle that job.  But with the advent of lithium-ion batteries, manufacturers can pack more power into tighter packages.  Makita makes a 10.8V ultra-compact with 200 inch-pounds of torque that will easily handle the benchmark.

So you can have both (small) size and power in the context of home use if you go with a good drill.  Don’t expect a cheap compact drill to handle the job because you need a lithium-ion battery to fit that much power into the compact format.

Always at the ready

Another reason to go with a li-ion battery is the low self discharge.  Both NiCd and NiMH have high self-discharge rates (20%-30% per month).  If your drill has been setting for 2 months it would still be nice to pull it out and go right to work without having to charge the battery first.  Well, as long as you charged the battery after you used it last time (which you should always do with your li-ion batteries), your drill should be good to go because the self-discharge rate is 5%-10% per month.  source

Handy features

Having a built-in light on a cordless drill is about as handy as a pocket on a shirt.  It’s a major plus for a cordless drill used mainly at home.  A bit holder is also nice so you have a place to store your dual phillips/straight driver bit, the bit you’ll be using 90%+ of the time at home.  But since you’ll be using that bit the vast majority of the time a bit holder isn’t an essential feature.

The chuck

Among smaller drills the choice is between a 1/4 inch chuck and a 3/8 inch chuck.  Most of the time the quarter inch will do.  But there’s a good chance the smaller chuck will be a limiting factor for something you need to do.  Everything thing else the same, the 1/4″ drill will be smaller, but I don’t think that justifies the limited versatility.  And of course, a keyless chuck is absolutely required.

Unless you know you only need a 1/4″ chuck, go for the 3/8″.  As for 1/2″ chucks, I don’t consider that to be in the “home use” category.  If you think you need a 1/2 inch look at the 18V drill page.

My Choice

Makita 10.8V ultra-compactMy recommendation for the best cordless drill for home use is the Makita 10.8V ultra-compact.  It has all of the essential features I mentioned and is surprisingly powerful.  Most importantly it is extremely versatile and represents the best package for all-around home use.

Check out the Makita 10.8-Volt Ultra Compact Cordless at Amazon

Replacement battery for 18V Makita cordless drill

Saturday, April 24th, 2010

Unfortunately, rechargeable batteries don’t last forever.  There’s a good chance your Makita drill will outlast the battery or batteries that came with it. (Although, the newer Li-ion batteries are rated for thousands of cycles and our choice for best 18v cordless drill comes with two, and so should last for a decade even with regular use.)

If it’s time to replace your Makita cordless drill battery, here’s what you need to know.

Physical compatibility

Most drill manufacturers try not to change how the batteries physically connect to the drill and where the battery electrical leads connect to the drill. There are many benefits (both for the manufacturer and the consumer) to keep these the same.  But occasionally the manufacturer will see a greater benefit in making a change.  And Makita did just that when they moved to Lithium ion batteries.  It was a good time to make a change for reasons noted below.

But here’s what you need to know.  You either have the stick (or pod) model or the slide model.  Obviously, one doesn’t work with the other, but for the most part each type will work with all the various models.  If you purchase a non-Makita battery it may only fit certain model numbers, so make certain yours is listed.

18v slide model battery

Slide Model

stick model battery

Stick/Pod Model

Battery Chemistry

There are three types of rechargeable batteries: Nickel Cadmium (NiCd), Nickel Metal-Hydride (NiMH), and Lithium-ion (Li-ion).  That’s in order of oldest to newest and generally better.  There are subtle differences in how these batteries behave.  I did an article previously on the differences between NiCd and NiMH batteries.  Here’s the bottom line:

NiCd and NiMH batteries are close enough chemically to replace each other.  There are some electronics designed to work specifically with one or the other type, but Makita designed their tools to be compatible, specifically so you can upgrade from NiCd to NiMH.

Battery Capacity

The capacity of a battery is measured in amp-hours or Ah.  Amps are a measure of current, so amp-hours is measure of current over time.  A 3.0 Ah battery will deliver 1 amp for 3 hours or 3 amps for 1 hour.  Energy is amps * voltage.  So a 3.0 Ah 18V battery has more capacity than a 3.0 Ah 14.4V battery.

But among batteries of the same voltage, you can compare Ah like apples to apples.  A 3.0 Ah battery has twice the capacity of a 1.5 Ah battery.

My Recommendations:

Makita 18V NiMH battery* If you have a NiMH or NiCd 18V Makita model you should get a NiMH replacement like this one.  There are some other models on Amazon and other places, but this one fits all the NiMH and NiCd 18V models, it’s made by Makita, has received only positive reviews and is offered by Amazon at a great price.  There are 3.0 Ah models like this one, but it’s not made by Makita and currently has no reviews.




Makita 18V li-ion battery

* If you have an 18V Li-ion Makita drill you have two options.  There’s the 1.5 Ah model and the 3.0 Ah model battery.  The 3.0 Ah model has twice the capacity for only about $14 more, so it’s got the value.  But it’s heavier.  One of the best features of the best 18V cordless drills is the light weight.  Since this is a replacement battery, you know how long the battery lasts and whether you need the extra capacity or could deal with half the capacity.  Make your decision accordingly.

Toy Cordless Drill

Sunday, April 18th, 2010

My son turned two this week.  He received many gifts from from friends and family.  Thomas  the Tank Engine is one of his favorite characters and he got many “Poma” toys that he loves.  But he also got a toy tool set that ranks among his favorites and can you guess what his favorite tool in the set is?  That’s right, the cordless drill.

He can play with it for tens of minutes at a time (which at his age is like days and days).  This confirms my hunch that there’s something deep inside all of us that love cordless drills.

Cordless Impact Driver vs Drill

Friday, April 16th, 2010

Makita cordless impact driver

We have a category on our site for impact drivers.  There’s an explanation there for what an impact driver does.  Basically an impact driver uses a spring to store some of its energy and it delivers that energy in small bursts.  This is much more effective for tightening or loosening nuts and, to a lesser degree, for driving screws.

To put it in real terms, with an impact driver you can loosen a nut that would take a regular drill 3 times the size of the impact driver.  That’s the big win.  But here are the downsides.  An impact driver is noisier, heavier, and (slightly) more expensive than a comparable regular drill.

But the bottom line is if you need the maximum torque or if you plan on doing more driving (of screws) than drilling (with bolts) then you should be using an impact driver.

Should I get a cordless combo pack?

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

a set of Makita cordless tools

The cordless combo pack is a set of cordless tools from one manufacturer that all use the same battery.  This example is the Makita LXT702.  It includes 7 18V tools:

  • hammer drill
  • impact driver
  • reciprocating saw
  • circular saw
  • angle grinder
  • flashlight
  • radio
  • you also get two batteries and a handy bag

Most people won’t use all of those tools.  At least not very often.  And let’s face it, the flashlight and radio are throw in to pad the “tool” number.

The nice thing about a combo pack is that you get a discount.  The whole kit is a little over twice the price of the hammer drill.  Of course, if you bought separately you’d get more batteries, but two should be plenty since they are lithium-ion and rapid charge.

Here’s my recommendation.  If you’re considering a cordless tool, at least check out the combo packs available.  Consider the value proposition and whether you can afford the pack.  If you think you’ll use 3 out of the 7 tools then you should probably get the combo pack.

The difference between NiMH and NiCD batteries

Sunday, April 11th, 2010

This is one that tends to confuse people, so I decided to address it early on.

A few years ago, before Lithium-ion batteries became prevalent, most power tools used either a Nickel-metal hydride battery (NiMH) or a Nickel-cadmium battery(NiCd).  There are still many power tools (and many other devices) that use one of these two batteries.  And the characteristics of these batteries differ enough that it’s useful to know their differences.

The biggest difference between a NiMH and NiCd is that NiCd batteries have a memory affect.  If you consistently drain a NiCd battery to 50% and recharge, then the battery will “remember”  that point and will suffer a voltage drop there in subsequent cycles.  You can avoid this by completely discharging the batter every so often.  Note: you don’t need to do this every cycle.  Once every 5 to 10 cycles is enough.

One point in favor of NiCd’s is they have a lower self-discharge rate.  This is how much the batter depletes itself when not in use.  NiMH’s are about 30%/month and NiCd’s are about 20%/month.  NiCd’s also have a more constant voltage of about 1.2V per cell.  NiMH’s start around 1.4V, quickly drop to 1.25V, then drop to .8 to 1.0V around 20% capacity.  For comparison, an alkaline battery starts at 1.5V and slowly falls to 1V over the life of the battery.

NiCd’s don’t perform well when they get hot, so if you have one you want to keep it cool.  But NiCd’s can have a higher discharge rate, meaning you can draw a lot of power from them very quickly (though NiMH’s perform fairly well too).

We will probably see NiCd’s fade from use.  The cadmium is bad for the environment and the cost of NiMH batteries are falling.  So for most uses, the NiMH will be the economical choice.  If you need a battery with low self-discharge lithium-ion will be the way to go.

Welcome to the Best Cordless Drill blog

Friday, April 9th, 2010

I decided I want to add more reviews, news and other tool information to the site and the regular format just wasn’t good for that.  So I’ve added a blog to the site right here.

If you have suggestions for what you’d like to see don’t hesitate to post them in the comments below.  Thanks.